Experiments in Skin

Race and Beauty in the Shadows of Vietnam

Book Pages: 240 Illustrations: 10 illustrations Published: April 2021

Subjects
American Studies, Asian Studies > Southeast Asia, Asian American Studies

In Experiments in Skin Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu examines the ongoing influence of the Vietnam War on contemporary ideas about race and beauty. Framing skin as the site around which these ideas have been formed, Tu foregrounds the histories of militarism in the production of US biomedical knowledge and commercial cosmetics. She uncovers the efforts of wartime scientists in the US Military Dermatology Research Program to alleviate the environmental and chemical risks to soldiers' skin. These dermatologists sought relief for white soldiers while denying that African American soldiers and Vietnamese civilians were also vulnerable to harm. Their experiments led to the development of pharmaceutical cosmetics, now used by women in Ho Chi Minh City to tend to their skin, and to grapple with the damage caused by the war's lingering toxicity. In showing how the US military laid the foundations for contemporary Vietnamese consumption of cosmetics and practices of beauty, Tu shows how the intersecting histories of militarism, biomedicine, race, and aesthetics become materially and metaphorically visible on skin.

Praise

Experiments in Skin is a fully dazzling treatment of the aftermaths of the Vietnam War. Working expertly at the intersection of military history, chemical warfare, modern medical research, race, dermatology, beauty, and skin, Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu tells a fascinating and important story about how contemporary Vietnamese beauty culture has arisen from an ugly history of US militarism—the afterlife of warfare in its enduring marks on Vietnamese skin as well as military efforts to heal and even perfect soldiers' skin. Tu renders extraordinary insight into the tightly entwined histories of militarized technology and a rising beauty culture, giving name to whole new territories for analysis.” — Matthew Frye Jacobson, William Robertson Coe Professor of American Studies and History, Yale University

“Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu advances a theory of aesthetics and politics that is urgently relevant to contemporary postcolonial theorizations of colonial modernity and the resistance to it. By historicizing the emergence of dermatology in the context of American empire and war, Experiments in Skin embodies the best of cultural studies methodology and analysis.” — Jennifer Terry, author of Attachments to War: Biomedical Logics and Violence in Twenty-First-Century America

"Experiments in Skin has extensive, detailed notes, and the depth of Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu’s analysis is evident as she cites military archives, newspaper articles and her own on-site research. . . . It is written in a journalistic style, which makes it accessible to a wide audience who might wish to learn about the heavy topics presented." — Bella Dalton-Fenkl, International Examiner

"Experiments in Skin is an ambitious and multifaceted account of the social afterlife of militarized medical science; its interdisciplinarity permits its author to draw insight from revealing juxtapositions. . . . Drawing together critical science studies with ethnography, Experiments in Skin contributes not only to medical anthropology and the history of medicine but also to a nascent critical research literature on beauty products and industries. Its chapters would make thought-provoking contributions to advanced undergraduate courses and graduate seminars in critical environmental studies, cultural studies, feminist studies, medical anthropology, postcolonial studies, science and technology studies, and Southeast Asian studies." — Martha Lincoln, Medical Anthropology Quarterly

"Experiments in Skin is a superb gift: beautifully written, intellectually expansive, accessible and engaging. One of the most admirable aspects of Experiments in Skin is its ambitious capacity: it covers a lot of intellectual ground, but does so in such a way that still maintains analytical depth and thoroughness. Tu’s capacity to balance both is enviable, and is a quality that makes this book such an engaging and enjoyable read." — John Paul (JP) Catungal, Society and Space

"It is well beyond the scope of a short book review to do justice to Dr. Tu’s exacting empirical research, or her powerful and affecting prose. But what I want to emphasize in my comments here is how Experiments in Skin is a fundamentally geographical book. It is, at its core, a book about places, the people who inhabit them, and the connections between them." — Wesley Attewell, Society and Space

"In this insightful—and indeed beautiful—book, Tu offers us a model of scholarly work that not only undertakes a rigorous examination of the archives of militarism and science, but also a theorization of the forms of life remaindered by war."
  — Linda Luu, Society and Space

"By contextualizing the Vietnamese landscape as an essentially hostile and undesirable one, and by demonstrating the extent to which slow violence came to surface on the skin, Experiments in Skin unveils an elaborate web of race, beauty, and power that closes the epistemological gap between racialized places and people. The book thus explores medical and military aspirations of dermatological intelligence to make it possible to simultaneously conceive of both spatial and racial difference through uneven exposure and development."
  — Jacinda Tran, Society and Space

"Experiments in Skin is a rich work that offers up so many pathways for further research. Although an academic text, Tu’s language is accessible with her extremely detailed analysis and frequent reiteration of her key points. I am excited to see how readers from various fields and backgrounds will build upon Tu’s interdisciplinary work, not only on its important subject, but on her methodology and its gestures of care and solidarity." — Cathy Duong, diaCritics

"Readers of all stripes will find much to appreciate and admire in this interdisciplinary historical project, as Tu provides the probing critical analysis and somatic language needed to tackle the deep entanglements of military racism, prison torture, and chemical warfare. Experiments in Skin is a book for anyone interested in what stories our skin have to tell, despite the endless technologies of maiming and the politics of denial. If our history is embodied, then our skin remembers well that living history, and it never lies about what cannot be denied or covered up." — Long T. Bui, American Historical Review

"By conjoining the United States and Vietnam through their similar relationships with skin, Tu offers new ways to understand how military, medical, and commercial interests have shaped and influenced the ways Vietnamese women have sought to cure and relieve skin disorders. . . . In tracing the history of experiments in the skin, Tu powerfully articulates how Vietnamese women do not hold the same desires as the US military holds. . . ." — Shani Tra & Sunshine Blanco, Journal of Asian American Studies

"In pursuing the ghostly traces of latent histories, Tu’s book theorizes the connections between surfaces of racialized, gendered, commercialized, militarized, and medicalized skin on multiple scales across the US and Vietnam, while being attentive to alternate logics of relationality and responsibility." — Elizabeth Wijaya, Pacific Affairs

"By considering the scientific contributions and innovations of the Global South, Nguyen Tu disentangles social and medical theory from its purportedly Western origins and places it in a global context. Perhaps the question at hand is not just how dermatology’s beginnings concern women in contemporary Vietnam but also how this line of inquiry can be furthered in Vietnam studies." — Allen L. Tran, Journal of Vietnamese Studies

"What Tu has created through Experiments in Skin is a vibrant work of scholarly research that should be consumed by academics and non-academics alike. Its insightful analysis makes it an essential reading for the social sciences and humanities, and fields in the sciences, technology, engineering, and mathematics (STEM) given the critical lens it casts onto the relationship among science, technology, and war. Additionally, its easy, narrative prose offers important recommendations for thinking through the politics of war and science and the lives that are affected across the globe, thus making it accessible for readers beyond the classroom." — Phung N. Su, Journal of Development Studies

"Through a meticulous examination of both concrete and intangible evidence—from archived records and visual artifacts to haunting tales and women’s care practices—Tu articulates a compelling exploration of the enduring chemical legacies in Vietnam. The book brilliantly exposes how these legacies are deeply ingrained in the skin of contemporary Vietnamese people."

  — Sojeong Park, Asian Journal of Women's Studies

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Open Access

Author/Editor Bios Back to Top

Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu is Associate Professor of Social and Cultural Analysis at New York University, and author of The Beautiful Generation: Asian Americans and the Cultural Economy of Fashion, also published by Duke University Press.

Table of Contents Back to Top
Acknowledgments  vii
Introduction. Mysteries of the Visible  1
1. Skin Stories: Making Beauty in the Culture of Renovation  23
2. The Beautiful Life of Agent Orange  49
3. An Armor of Skin: Pacific Threats and the Dreams of Infinite Security  76
4. A Laboratory of Skin: Making Race in the Mekong Delta  104
5. Weak Skin, Strong Skin: The Work of Making Livable  134
Epilogue  161
Notes  165
Bibliography  201
Index  219
Sales/Territorial Rights: World

Rights and licensing

2022 PROSE Award Winner in the World History category, presented by the Association of American Publishers


Third Place, 2022 Victor Turner Prize, presented by the Society for Humanistic Anthropology section of the American Anthropology Association


Winner of the 2022 PROSE Award for Excellence in the Humanities, presented by the Association of American Publishers


Winner of the 2022 R. R. Hawkins Award, presented by the Association of American Publishers


Additional InformationBack to Top
Paper ISBN: 978-1-4780-1177-4 / Cloth ISBN: 978-1-4780-1066-1 / eISBN: 978-1-4780-1313-6
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